Pro advice between our visits

Clear debris early — sticks, leaves, and thatch left over from winter smother new growth and invite disease. A thorough raking (or a power rake for larger lawns) lets sunlight and air reach the soil.

Test before you treat. A simple soil test tells you exactly what your lawn needs instead of guessing with fertilizer. West Michigan soils are often acidic, so lime may be in order.

Mow high once growth starts — set your deck to 3.5–4 inches. Taller grass shades out weeds and develops deeper roots, which pays off when summer heat arrives.

Schedule a spring cleanup and your first cut before the grass gets ahead of you. The first mow of the season should remove no more than a third of the blade height at once.

Water deeply and infrequently — one inch of water per week in one or two sessions beats a light daily sprinkle. Deep watering grows deep roots that survive dry stretches.

Mow even higher in July and August. Raise your deck to 4 inches to shade the soil and reduce moisture loss. Never cut more than a third of the blade at a time.

Hold off on fertilizer during heat waves. Feeding a stressed lawn burns it. If you must feed, do it before a stretch of cooler, wetter weather.

Sharpen your blade. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving ragged tips that turn brown and invite disease. A sharp cut heals fast and looks crisp.

Keep mowing as long as the grass grows. Don't stop too early — a final cut at about 2.5–3 inches going into winter prevents snow mold and matting.

Don't let leaves sit. A mat of wet leaves smothers the lawn and causes dead patches. Mulch them in with your mower, or remove them before snowfall.

Aerate and overseed in early fall. Cool nights and warm soil make it the ideal window for seed germination. Core aeration relieves compaction and lets roots breathe.

Late-fall fertilizer is the single most important feeding of the year. It stores carbohydrates in the roots so the lawn greens up fast and strong in spring.

Mark your driveway and walkway edges with reflectors before the ground freezes. This keeps plows off your lawn and protects borders from being sheared off.

Clear downspouts and drainage paths. Ice dams form when melting snow has nowhere to go — direct water away from your foundation and hardscapes.

Choose the right de-icer. Rock salt works above 15°F and is hard on concrete and plants. Calcium chloride works at lower temps and is gentler — we can advise on the right mix for your surface.

Book a seasonal contract early. Seasonal customers get priority dispatch when storms hit, while per-push calls wait in queue. The difference can be hours during a big event.

Move vehicles off the driveway before we arrive. A clear driveway lets us plow efficiently and avoids pile-backs behind tires.

Stay off freshly salted surfaces until they've had time to work. Foot traffic on melting ice pushes brine off the walk and slows melting.

Don't pile snow at the end of the driveway where it blocks sightlines. We stack snow where it won't refreeze into a hard icy bank.

If you're on a seasonal contract, you don't need to call — we dispatch automatically when accumulation hits our trigger depth.

Edge and define your beds. A crisp edge between lawn and mulch beds reads as "cared for" even before you notice the mowing.

Keep walkways clear of debris. A quick sweep keeps your entry looking intentional and reduces slip hazards year-round.

Inspect after storms. Wind, snow, and ice can break branches or shift hardscapes. Catching damage early prevents bigger repairs.

Communicate anything unusual. Pet changes, new gates, or access issues — a note to your crew prevents surprises and protects your property.